Kayaking to greet the dawn on the Chechessee River
MATT RICHARDSON
Kayaker Alan Eisenman of Beaufort paddles into the sunrise on the beautiful and scenic Chechessee. A popular and well-maintained boat landing on S.C. 170 makes this stretch of Port Royal Sound highly accessible by boat or kayak.
In the early-morning darkness on the Chechessee River, you could hear the clapper rail, or marsh hen, calling in the grass along the marshy shore. Her intermittent “kak, kak, kak” betrayed her presence, but in the predawn light she was a ghost among the spartina grass.
Away in the east, the sky was growing light, and above the low mounds of two islands a line of clouds, like a distant range of mountains, showed a reddish glow. As the light around us grew and the sun began to slowly rise above the horizon, the voice of one of my young sons came to me from a nearby kayak:
“Dad?”
“Yes, son?” I answered, glad that I could spend this beautiful moment with my two boys and a group of close friends. As I sat in awe of the sunrise, I strained to hear what would surely be my child’s admiration of the magnificent view and gratitude to his dad for bringing him along on this kayak trip.
“Can we go now?” He asked, “The bugs are eating me alive.”
As beautiful as the sunrise was, I could not argue with him. Besides, I had promised them a hot breakfast at a nearby restaurant, and pancakes and a good cup of coffee seemed to be calling my name. Dawn was arriving in the Lowcountry, promising another day of adventure — bugs and all.
The Chechessee River is part of the Port Royal Sound waterway and is a magnet for boating, fishing or discovering the natural wonders of the Lowcountry. Its tidal waters are fed by Hazzard Euhaw Creeks, and it forms an avenue between green sea islands and the wide, shallow waters of the Broad River.
S.C. 170, that vital artery of traffic between Bluffton and Beaufort, crosses it. The river is easily accessed and explored by boat or kayak, and its sheltered waters can provide unparalleled views and encounters with the thriving wildlife of the region: manatees, sharks, osprey, eagles, dolphins, sea turtles — and of course redfish, drum and other fish.
Along the shore are a few docks and homes, but mostly there is wildness and history. At the mouth of the Chechessee, where it meets the wide waters of the sound, Daws Island Heritage Preserve hangs like an emerald pendant. Here, Native American shell rings have been dated to 10,000 B.C., while across the waters the modern homes of Hilton Head Island stand as a reminder that humans have come and gone like the Lowcountry tide for millennia.
The easiest access to the waters of the Chechessee River is the Edgar C. Glenn Boat Ramp off S.C. 170. Here, you can launch a boat or kayak in any season and readily have access to the waterway and all that it has to offer.
Adjacent to the ramp is the Sharon and Dick Stewart Maritime Center and home of the Port Royal Sound Foundation. This organization is dedicated to protecting and sharing information about the valuable ecosystem of Port Royal Sound.
A visit to the Maritime Center will complete the experience of the outdoors, adding an understanding of the region’s unique history and ecosystem. Housed in the renovated Lemon Island Marina, the center contains examples of wildlife, interactive exhibits on the natural wonders and cultural history of the region, “touch tanks” to experience local wildlife and educational programs.
I have kayaked, boated and fished on the Chechessee River for many years, and the recent dawn paddle was an unforgettable experience, bugs notwithstanding. I recently visited the Sharon and Dick Stewart Maritime Center with my family. We gained a new understanding of the outdoor world we have enjoyed for so long and a deeper appreciation of the need to ensure its preservation.
Whether you plan to spend a day on the water or are looking to spend a few hours in discovery, the Chechessee River and the Sharon and Dick Stewart Maritime Center will be a rewarding experience.
Just be sure to bring some bug repellent.
GETTING THERE
The Chechessee River is easily accessed for boating at the Edgar C. Glenn Boat Ramp on S.C. 170 at 380 Okatie Highway in the heart of Beaufort County. This is large, well-maintained landing with dock and ample parking area. It is popular with boaters in all seasons and is open dawn to dusk year-round.
If you plan to kayak the Chechessee River, you should be mindful of the tides, as the normal 8-foot pull can be easily felt. If timed properly, the river can make for an enjoyable paddling experience for all skill levels.
The Sharon and Dick Stewart Maritime Center is located at 310 Okatie Highway and is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tours are self-guided, but knowledgeable docents are present to answer questions and assist in any way.
Admission is free — but donations to the Port Royal Sound Foundation are welcome and put toward conservation efforts. For more information, call (843) 645-7774 or visit https://portroyalsoundfoundation.org.